Our lovely friend, Anne Carlucci, suggested we visit Pietrasanta and Forte dei Marmi. Jim grumbled at first because we’ve been doing so much driving. But he’s not grumbling now! He fell head over heels for them, as did I, particularly Pietrasanta. Forte dei Marmi was GORGEOUS with the Apuan Alps surrounding the sea, some with remains of the snowpack. The town reminded me of Palm Beach or Santa Monica in terms of being upscale and beachy. But Pietrasanta, a town comprised largely of artists and crafts people, is outstanding. It's where Michaelangelo studied. The olive and orange orchards, the greenery and, the most gorgeous sculptures around the main square, are mind-boggling. There was a Duomo, naturally, and although I vowed NEVER to enter another church, Jim convinced me. This church was special. Compact and magnificent. Truly one of the most beautiful churches I’ve ever seen. One of the things about Pietrasante is its marble quarries are legendary and the works that have been Continue Reading
MOUNTAIN HIGH
Our house in Italy is high in the Apennines Mountains. We’ve written of its WWII history before on this blog. What I want to explain to our friends here now is the special sound and effect of the mountain wind through a forest; taking place all around me now, as I sit in our front yard about one mile high. I love the sound of the ocean; it’s crashing waves, the expanse and the forever nature of its sound. But the wind in the trees in the mountains is something else. And I have come to love it, too. It’s different in sound and effect from the crashing ocean waves. It has a power to it like the crashing waves; but it also has an insistence about it that is at once both alarming and reassuring. Its as though at any minute a tornado could strike, or a hurricane, even though you know that’s not what the wind portends. And yet still somehow reassuring in its refusal to stop. Really a treat for a “city boy!” Love, Jim Continue Reading
BEING ON DONKEY TIME
Italy’s beauty is indescribable or maybe I’m just too lazy to try. This part of Italy, Pistoia, is so different from other parts of Italy we’ve stayed in. The combination of mountains, forests, rocks, stupefying heights and greenery takes our breath away. Getting up to house is part of the adventure and does limit how much we go out. The other night we were out to dinner with our guests, Chris and Nancy. When we started up the road, which winds up for a mile over the most uneven, rocky, craggy and terrifying terrain, I asked, quite innocently, had we reached the donkeys yet. The donkeys are the “sign” we’re close to home. Something about that question ignited howls of laughter from Nancy, who had been holding onto the strap above her in the backseat for dear life. Her laughter was contagious and started me howling as well. We laughed all the way up the hill, past the donkeys and finally to the gate of the house, where we continued to roar. It’s been a fairly layback time with Continue Reading
HITLER HISTORY & BLACK MIRROR
When I took journalism in high school I was taught that the headline of the article should reflect the story you’re about to tell. What my two topics things have in common is my stream of consciousness. I’m outside, overlooking layer upon layer of mountains and hill towns and thinking about Nazis. "Black Mirror" enters the picture because all around me are reminders of a certain episode. SPOILER ALERT. I’ll start with the crazier of the two: "Black Mirror." If you haven’t seen the episode, skip this because you won’t give a damn or understand what I’m talking about. But those of you who have seen the most recent season will, I hope. It’s the episode with Kelly McDonald and the drones. The ones that look like bees. Right now there are flying creatures, beautiful, a cross between a butterfly and a hummingbird all over the terrace. I’ve never seen them anywhere but here in Italy. Except on that episode of “Black Mirror.” These flying objects look EXACTLY like the scary fucking Continue Reading