When we come to London, we bring heat. I don’t mean the kind of heat that generates buzz, I mean actual heat – as in temperature. London is not a place where you expect heat. We expected rain and (shameful admission) even bought the dogs raincoats. Come on! It’s London. We’ve been here over the 4th of July when we had to wear sweaters and raincoats and still froze. Not this summer. Or last, apparently, when we were here and roasted.
It’s been strange getting “settled”. Suddenly we’re no longer on holiday because we’re in one place for two months. It’s the first time we fully unpacked, bought groceries, had people in for dinner, etc. But we still need to find an emotional space between “holiday” and actual “residency”. The flat is okay, but not one of my best finds. Giving up control is NOT an easy thing for me. This taught me I was right and won’t ever make that mistake again. But with the house and moving and the distance, etc. it seemed like hiring/trusting London Relocation (whom I spoke to a million times prior to getting here), allegedly a soup to nuts company that takes care of everything, should have done the trick. But they don’t mention all the things they don’t take care of until you get here. And the rental agent, Foxton’s, is the worst. Once we got here we learned they’re notoriously bad BUT they have a corner on the short let market so there’s not a lot of choice. That said, the flat also has many things to commend it, starting with our neighborhood, Maida Vale, aka Little Venice, which is amazing. Charming and magical. We’ve been to London a zillion times and never knew about this ‘hood. We love having the canals right down the block.
We went to a screening of our close friend Sadie Jones’s BBC miniseries, “The Outcast,” based on her award-winning book. It airs here in London in a week or two. Don’t know when or if it airs in the States. The film is wonderful and absolutely captures the book and I hope you get a chance to see/read it. Sadie’s an incredibly talented writer.
London is a constant revelation. I think NYC and LA are international cities but they seem far less so when compared to London. I’m especially struck by the large and very visible Muslim population. It’s not the number of Muslims that surprises me, it’s how easily they appear to have blended into the overall community. Jim and I frequent an outdoor market that’s largely Muslim, and not just Arab Muslims, in addition to every every other ethnic or minority group. I haven’t felt the least bit uncomfortable nor do I feel any tension in the air. To the contrary, there seems to be genuine respect and acceptance of one another. In the US, lip service is paid to being a “melting pot”, but I don’t think we embrace other cultures. I think we try and segregate ourselves as much as possible, particularly if people have the financial means to do so. Unless you live in a big city like NYC or LA, there isn’t much co-mingling of ethnicities.
For all my pro-British rah-rah, there are, sadly, many negative things to say as well. The conservative leadership is gutting progressive programs and imposing the same kind of Draconian laws we’ve already put in place. The government wants to balance the books on the backs of the poor, and, like NYC, the Russians, Chinese and rich Arabs are buying up the place. What I don’t experience here is the kind of malaise or, quite frankly, the ignorance right wing Americans righteously display. British politicians don’t say the shockingly ignorant things US politicians say. There’s no equivalent of Sarah Palin, Ted Cruz or Donald Trump. The BBC had fun with that.
It’s profoundly expensive here and wages don’t match ours. I don’t know how people can afford to live here. We took a tube to our friend Nicky’s last night, who lives in a lovely flat in Kentish Town, a very cool part of London which is becoming increasingly more gentrified. Round trip tube fare for Jim and I. Just over $30.00!! THIRTY FUCKING DOLLARS to ride the tube. And Nicky only lives the distance of downtown Manhattan to the upper West Side! Mad. Utterly mad. Yet when you look around countless numbers of Londoners are headed for the trains, popping over to the Continent for the weekend. How I love trains.
We listen to a LOT of radio. Radio is still a big thing here. You turn on the BBC in the morning and it runs in the background until you go to bed. The range of programming is astonishing. Things you would never in your life dream would be interesting are compelling in the hands of the BBC. We bought a small radio for ten pounds that runs on batteries. It crackles slightly and makes me think it’s how radio sounded in WW2. WW2 is still very much alive in London. It’s all around you, quite literally in the architecture. It’s one of the things I love about London. It’s connection to history. Since our trip to Normandy last year, I’ve become semi-fixated on the Second World War.
Piece of grim news via a friend who, in the course of discussing how food in London is healthier (no GMO’s allowed), dropped a bombshell. Our favorite “quickie” food place, Pret a Manger, is now partly owned by McDonald’s. Is there nowhere that’s safe. Bloody Nestle’s took over Cadbury here and now the double milk tastes FAKE! Not to mention Nestle’s is one of the most EVIL corporations in the world. Google them sometime.
Hi kids!
Sorry you’re disappointed in the apt. However, the hood looks divine! Everyone looks settled in including the pooches. Yes, London is outrageously expensive. Last time I was there, I had the same thought: how can people afford to live here. I remember one night after the theater stopping a an insignificant little pizzeria. Irv had a glass of wine and a Caesar salad. I had a small pizza and water. The tab was 74 pounds. Exchange rate was 1.35. I was stunned. When we had dinner at The Canaught, the tab was 500 pounds. Tho, I was prepared for that one. But honestly, pizza and a salad for 74 pounds?!
I love the radio. Grew up listening to it as I fell asleep at night. As for the whole Muslim cumbaya thing, they don’t have all those cameras there for no reason. But I get what you’re saying. Life and politics are complicated… But everything sounds better with an English accent. Enjoy, darlings. You’ve earned it!
Flat looks great. I also think their elections are only 6 weeks long so not the campaigning we have here. Love the canals and your photos. Enjoy your time in England. Fortunately on 2 months you can visit lots of other countries and areas.
I lived in NW London for several years off of Finchley Rd and Hendon Way. I thought that Hershey bought Cadbury. I loved the ethnic food choices…especially Turkish. My husband is from London and I moved there to be with him in 1997 , a week before Diana died. What a time that was for everyone. I hope you have a great couple of months in London. Will you be taking your holidays in August like the rest? One day I was riding the bus and it was about 78 degrees outside…she got on panting and said that she usually walked but it was just too hot!
Hello Bonnir and Jim, so glad you are settled in. I just got back from marching in the July 4th parade. I support a Conservancy organization. It’s a tradition here. Our little town swells during summer months; that’s the good news (for vendors), bad news for locals like me. I have been dealing with some medical issues, nothing life threatening , just very uncomfortable.
When we were in London last year we found a little pub in the Shepard Market called the Kings Arms. In Mayfair district. We went back twice. Best fish and chips and Bramley apple pie.
So enjoy reading your posts. Love to you both.
Love hearing from you!
Dear Princess Bonnie,
Um, that all looks kinda amazing, including your “flat.” Even the shirtless “bloke” seems super content. Go take a toke of a groovy “fag” and some more of that vino, “guvnuh!”
By the way, besides Cher, I know another dame who resides there. But she is a banker, so Jim will have to stay behind; otherwise, there will be another revolutionary war.
Let me say in my own defense, we did fix the place up with flowers. It is true I’m a Princess when it comes to things like this…well probably more than just things like this. But there were “issues” with flat that were non-princess things…we’ll discuss and you can vote princess/non-princess.
Enjoy London! I’ve been there twice in the last few years. About transportation — you must purchase an OYSTER CARD. They work so well and give you a big discount on travel. You pay a deposit that you easily get back when you leave. I just got the equivalent LEAF CARD in Dublin, but I can’t figure out how to get the deposit back.
Your flat and the neighborhood look lovely. Why are you disappointed? Go to the lobby of a touristy hotel and take samples of the brochures that tell you what’s playing in town and what’s on in the Museums. Have a great time!
I have an Oyster Card. It’s still wildly expensive. You have to turn in card at tube station and they give you your deposit back. The Oyster Card is 5 pounds. We’ve been here a million times over the years and want to try and do stuff we’ve never done, i.e. Hampton Court. Fringe Festival is starting. There’s so much to do here. We had fabulous dim sum with friends today and then went to installation in Hyde Park. Our favorite thing is the War Rooms and Churchill Museum. Have you done that? It’s amazing. I also thought we’d visit ‘hoods we haven’t been today, like Islington.
Love the commentary! You two look like you are in your element even if your set up is not princess and prince worthy yet. Good theater now? I am off to Nova Scotia for 3 weeks very soon. Wish I could just continue on to visit you two! Will check airfares from NS to London. Would be great to pop in!
I’m so jealous. Sounds like a great adventure! I adore London. So much to influence your painting when you return to crazyville love your blog